Making a shinai-based longsword simulator

1. Unwrap the Shinai and cut off the red string, removing also the leather cap at the end and the leather wraps. Since the shinai handle is a little long, proportionately, I cut approximately 2" from the handle.

2. Next the end-leather is stripped. You can do this easily using a box-cutting knife, moving around quickly but trying not to score the bamboo (because it will become weaker). The leaves a nice 3/4" or so round mounting point for the pommel.

3. Next a cross is fashioned. For this experiment we used 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak, since it was readily available at the local Home Depot, but you must be careful; several of ours cracked. Alternatively, polyethelyne plastic or leather could be used (though stiffness is required, in particualr for Posta Frontale and catching the opponent on the True Cross, so be sure that if you use leather, it is done in several layers. Note that either option could add signifcant weight, which is not good.

Use a drill press with a 15/16" boring bit to make a hole completely through the wood. You might want to test fit cutting a small piece of cardboad first, since all shinai vary slightly and you don't want to waste the hilt material.

4. Next the cross is sanded to shape. Be sure to leave a minimum of 3/8 - 1/2" of material at the point where the hole is, since it is a major point of stress. Many of our intitial "sleeker" ones cracked off during the first two weeks of use.

Be sure to slightly round the edges, just a little bevel, so that they aren't as inclinded to splinter and crack. Sand all edges to reduce or eliminate splintering.

When slid into place, drill a 3/16" hole completely through the cross and shinai. Run a 3/16" wooden dowel through, glue it in place, and sand off the excess on each side to make a pin (so that the cross doesn't rotate during a fight).

5. The finished cross in place, pinned with the 3/16" dowel (it's REALLY hard to see).

6. We used two layers of oak, glued together, to make a 1 1/2" thick x 1 1/2" block of oak. Hickory or ash would have been better; the oak quickly split on most of the weapons. Cut the blanks to size, but do not sand them yet. And buy a little extra material, because sometimes it splits when drilling (step #7).

You can make slightly different shapes of pommel, depending upon your tastes, the page of Oakeshott that happens to be open, and the preferences for the folks helping to make the weapons.

7. Carefully drill a 3/4" hole, approximately 1 3/4" deep. Be careful, as glued material might split at this point. Hopefully, it will fit neatly over the end of the shinai.

8. The pommel is now sanded to meet the weapon profile, otherwise it's far too blocky. Be sure also to bevel the edges to avoid splintering and shearing.

As with the cross, drill a 3/16" hole through the pommel and shinai, pinning it in place. While this is a good idea, many of ours split at this point, probably because we used oak instead of hickory or ash.

9. The finished pommel done by some of the Schola folks on our Saturday work party.

10. the finished hilt, ready for work on the tip. Lots of interesting and more detailed work could be done...but we needed to make 12 of them in one day, so we cranked them out!

At least the hilt offers the pommel and cross, crucial aspects of the Italian longsword. It also has the right proportion, and is comfortable in the hands. The large pommel offers the classic levering action needed in transitioning from porto di ferro to a thrust; or in the punta that often follows from denti di cingiale.

11. Now attention turns to the tip, perhaps the most important functional change to the weapon.

The leather cap is removed, which should be easy once the cording holding it in place has been removed in step #1.

12. Two small circles of closed-cell form or equivilent are cut to the same size as the cap, and stuffed into it; they should fit snugly in the tip.

13. The tip is now replaced and taped into place--but now...

14...it has give! At least a little.

15. Now some 1/4" or 3/8" tubing--available locally from Orchard Supply (the aquarium-size is too small)--is wrapped completely around the ends of the weapon, from the hilt and taped into place. Before you start, read the next step carefully--

Leave 3/4" of space around the tip as you roll the tube into place, being sure to line the tube defined "edge" up with the cross.

16. Since you followed directions and left a 3/4" space between the weapon's tip and the tubing, you can now roll a little closed-cell foam into a tight bun and stuff it inside.

Tape the whole weapon with duct tape, or in the CSG style, you can use bookbinder's weight leather and stitch a leather cover instead.

The leather makes the weapon much more durable, but also heavier. Our taped versions weighed in at just 2.25 pounds; not bad for a quick and dirty simulator!